Nevertheless, he evidently became accustomed to them for at Tolosa he ate heartily of a meal highly flavored with both. They rarely speak, however, in such strong terms as Maccoun who finds the Spanish cM! Every article placed before you," he says, is stewed, and strongly impregnated with rancid oil, garlic, saffron, and red-pepper; and the newly-arrived stranger, whose stomach is unaccustomed to such high-flavored condiments, is obliged to fall back upon boiled eggs, bread and cheese.
March, like most American travellers in Spain, learned, on the contrary, to like Spanish cooking. He writes of the national dish I grew so enamored of it that, before long, the pungent garlic with which it was seasoned, and the rancid oil with which it was accompanied, became a second nature to me. We arrived, fatigued and hungry in the evening at Torreblanca the Posada was none of the best, but our good hostess, willing to prepare something for supper, seized a tough dung-hill cock, decapitated him without ceremony, dissected the bird, and placed the parts in an earthen dish, and with onions and tomatoes; we viewed the ceremony, of cooking the same, over a naffy of charcoal, and the addition of oil, of no great freshness, which was poured in the dish from the lamp feeder, sufficiently cured our appetite, without partaking of the dish.
According to Pettigrew a breakfast served at Aranda one morning during his travels in Spain in was the cause of complaint among the French passengers of the diligence. He, however, found it very palatable although it was well flavored with garlic. This recalls Ford's statement that "the oil is used indifferently for lamps or stews. Ford compares the wine, which he says sometimes serves for vinegar, to purple blacking. He says the table is plentiful and the cooking to those who like oil and garlic excellent.
Ford, p. Garlic, he found particularly offensive to the English. Because the national dish, the olla or the so-called puchero in the north of Spain, contained large quantities of the two ingre- dients just mentioned, it was not agreeable at first to the taste of many American travellers. For Maccoun it had no attractions. Captain S. He writes The famous puchero and olla may be very savory dishes for the Spaniard but for one accustomed to a civilized cuisine, a mixture of beef, bacon, sausages, beans, cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, pepper, etc.
This national dish is frequently described by American travellers. In fact according to the descriptions given there seems to have been as much diversity in the contents as in the days of Sancho Panza. Noah who travelled in Andalucia says mutton is more plentiful than beef and is the favorite dish.
Up to the sixties the olla is mentioned by nearly every American traveller in Spain; many of whom give long descriptions of its composition and preparation and testify to its popularity. Taylor, p. In Breton de los Herreros we read. Townsend was accustomed to enquire the prices of provisions before leaving a city. His figures like those of Laborde a few years later and of Inglis in show a lower price of beef as compared with that of mutton. English and French travellers also testify to its universal use. Ford describes it at length and informs us that it is well made only in well appointed Andalusian houses.
Borrow, vol. Glimpses of 5'at'M, p. With the general impulse felt in the country from the thirties on, foreign dishes began to take the place of native dishes at inns most frequented by foreigners. According to Mackie the fondas were already getting ashamed of the national dish in i8gl.
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He says: Half a century hence the traveller will be obliged to descend to the ventorrillo to get a taste of it, Eight years later Pettigrew was impressed with the posada at Lucena, which, as it was not often frequented by strangers, was of native simplicity and served a real olla. Cushing was favorably impressed with the guisado although some of the other travellers recalling Gil Blas looked on it somewhat suspiciously.
Caleb Cushing, vol. Spain, vol. Noah, p. American traveller as well as that of the English.
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Humphreys writes in At the public houses on the roads at a considerable distance from the sea, codfish from America is plentier and cheaper than other goods that are to be found. This seems the more strange as the droves of cattle, herds of swine and nocks of sheep are apparently numerous and excellent. MMOM at Penanor. The famous ham of the Alpujarras receives words of praise from American travellers in general. Woodruff describing an excellent dinner he had at Almeria December 9, , says:.
It is cured in snow and sugar without smoke, and with little or no salt. It is known abroad by the name of sweet ham. The bellotas on which the swine feed and which is supposed to Noah, Mackenzie, Wallis, Mills, Widdrington, Ford and others speak of it in favorable terms. Traces of the Roman and Moor, p. Spain and the Spaniards in vol. Gautier, p.
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Revere, p. Byrne says that it is not difficult to approve y'OMtOM con dulces al'though he finds it somewhat incongruous to an English patate. Ford, pp. The turron of Alicante, that of Jijona, the preserves, the fruits and nuts, all receive their share of praise from the American traveller. Until well toward the middle of the century, the American in Spain was impressed with the absence of both tea and coffee. Cushing in one of her letters from Spain in says that if tea and coffee are not absolutely unknown in the whole of Spain they are at least so scarce that few are able to buy them.
James L. The melon is frequently mentioned as of a very fine variety. It pleased Jay so much that he sent seeds of it to America. Tea and coffee, he says, have supplanted chocolate in England and France but not in Spain. Au reste il est d'un usage assez rare. Many of the Spaniards mix spirits with their coffee. With increased liberty came an increase in travel and with this increase in travel a catering to the wishes of the traveller, which meant tea for the English, coffee for the French, and both for the American.
At Jerez in Wallis was given tea by his! Wallis says that at Cordoba in the people were ssp. Su importacion de la China y su uso y su abuso, son la historia del uso y el abuso de nuestras tibertades. He adds they seemed to think it a much better joke than I did when I tried it.
So difficult was it to get either tea or coffee well prepared that foreigners were obliged to substitute chocolate. If good coffee and tea were lacking there was always excellent chocolate.
cheerocatather.tk The American traveller not only learned to take this instead of his favorite beverage, but also became very fond of it. Hardly one of them fails to expatiate on its perfections. Adams writes in his diary at El Ferrol, December 10, "Breakfasted on Spanish chocolate, which answers the fame it has acquired in the world. Each lady took a tumbler of water and a piece of sugar, dipped her sugar in her tumbler of water, eat the one, and drank the other. Each lady took a cup and drank it, and then cakes and bread and butter were served then each lady took another cup of cold water, and here ended the repast.